|Here you can see the difference in size between the Tortoise, Servo and the Switchmaster.|
|First, just a few photos of normal turnouts with a Servo mounted underneath.|
Peco turnout with a normal Tortoise style installation.
The tension on the centering spring has been reduced by sliding the "T" piece away from the throw bar.
|Servo mounted beneath the Peco turnout - set up to operate like a Tortoise|
|The Shin O'Hara shown here has been modified for DCC and reliable running. |
The servo operates in the same way as a Tortoise.
|The servo is mounted into the plastic molding and held by a good quality double sided tape 1mm thick. The plastic is held in place with the same type of tape. |
Once you are satisfied with the position, two small screws can then be inserted to hold it permanently in place. The screws supplied with the servo are perfect.
|The Micro Engineering turnout shown has been modified for DCC.|
|This servo is set up like a Switchmaster and is my personal preferred method as it only requires a 1mm hole through the baseboard after the turnout has been installed.|
BracketsIn all the photos the white plastic bracket is a short length of channel cut from a 3 metre length purchased from Bunnings (hardware chain store) for about $5.00. There is a short piece of thin double-sided tape between the screws that holds the bracket in position until you put the screws in. The screws come with the Servo.
Here you can see the metal bracket from ANE mounting the servo in a hard to get at spot under the layout.
Whichever method is used, the driver can drive the servo with precision, speed and silence with very little effort in the setup of the servo or the driver board. The servo is light weight and easy to mount.
This is done in a "neutral" position (point blades centred) and the servo is then plugged onto the driver board with a 3 pin plug - all servos come with the same plug.
This board (Tam Valley Singlet II) has two screw terminals for the power input, this can be any AC/DC supply of 7-18 volts, OR, straight to the DCC bus under the layout. This driver board has two push buttons and two bi-colour LEDs for operation, a jumper plug for set up, and provision for a remote switch or push button. The bonus of using this board with DCC is that it has a built in accessory decoder so that you can operate the turnout (point) from your throttle. Once the servo is mounted and the power applied to the board the rest is easy.
Move the jumper plug to the "align" position and sit back. The LEDs on the board will flash and the servo will start to move one way. When the point rail gets to the stock rail and feels a mechanical resistance the LED will flash slower and then stop. The point blades will repeat the process at the other rail. When the process has finished put the jump back to its "run" position and the servo is ready to use.
|There is no soldering required and no technical knowledge - less knowledge required than wiring a Tortoise or similar. The board is supplied complete or as a "kit" the kit contains the ready made up and tested board, two LEDs and two push buttons for you to solder on either the front of the board or the back. Alternatively, the LEDs can be mounted on the facia panel of the layout.|
The above photo shows the servo vertically mounted alongside a Tortoise to show the relative size.
None of the above require soldering just plug the bits together. If the cables are not long enough there are also 300mm, 600mm, and 1200mm extension cables that just plug in - no soldering.
The TAM Valley Singlet can also be adjusted using Decoder Pro.
ANE also make a driver board that can handle 4 Servos with an extra board as a decoder.